Saturday, March 29, 2008

Market Finds

Some great finds in the Kabou market recently:

1. BVB 09, Dortmund Football Club Hat (80 cents) From when they won the Champion's League!
2. Spiderman sheets for my bed ($2.50)
3. Authentic Hugo Boss Jeans ($3)
4. Random Communist Hammer and Sickle T-Shirt (80 cents)
5. Guitar Hero T-Shirt (80 cents)

Inaugural Kabou Podcast!

Kassie and I decided to start podcasts to share our lives, work, and Togolese culture. We would love any recommendations or questions. Please email anything to me or Kassie!

Podcast 1 - 1.4 MB

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Work Update

I guess I've neglected information on my actual work here in Togo. Here's an update:

I'm still teaching English at the high school every Monday and Tuesday. The students are well-disciplined and eager to learn more. One actually asked me for an exam! Hopefully the course will make an impact on their performance taking the BAC in June.

ACM, the Microfinance, and I will be launching a grant proposal to fund our Girls' Student Enterprise Loan Fund. The project will include a week long training "camp", followed by the opportunity to receive a loan without prior savings to start their proposed small income generating activities.

At the bank we are also looking into adding a basic Student Loan service to help those who cannot pay their school fees at the beginning of the year. We will pay the school directly while students and their parents reimburse the bank.

ACM Kara, the PCV in Kara, and I are looking into a large loan to help solve the credit shortage at the bank. There are many clients who want loans, but there isn't always enough to lend. With the new solidarity group method, more capital is needed to fund credit without savings services.

Monthly meetings with those infected with HIV/AIDS in Kabou will continue. This month we will discuss family budgeting. Last month we discussed nutrition and adding Moringa leaves to sauces. Each person took home seeds to start their own Moringa nursery. My six trees are about 2 feet tall after about a month!

On Saturdays, I met with a group of about 10 students interested in learning business skills. After about 10 meetings it is still going strong. The kids are very motivated and are now writing a project plan to bring computers to their high school.

Those are the main things going on in Kabou. Every day is a little bit different so volunteer life is great. I might purchase a TV and antenna so I can watch Champions League matches, EURO 2008, and the upcoming Olympics!

????

Do you think an outdoor bucket bath with your significant other sounds romantic? That means one bucket and two cups. Let me know what you think. There does not seem to be a clear consensus among PCVs...

350 KM: My legs are tired

Sorry for the delay on the blog, but I was gone for "in-service" training and the All Volunteer Conference in Pagala last week. Before that, Peter and I went on a long journey via bicycle from Kabou to the northern capital of Dapaong.

After getting a little off track and some minor bike problems, we didn't make it to our goal of Mango (about 110 km from Kabou) so we stayed in a small village called Tababou. The chief was welcoming, giving us some yams and gari for dinner and allowing us to sleep at the local primary school. The catch was of course that they would like another potable water source. If anybody can install a pump somewhere, go to Tababou!

The next day we got back to the old German colonial road, beautifully lined with large Kapok trees outside of Koumongou. A little later we fjorded the local river and finished the ride to Mango. The next few days, we relaxed a bit and only did about 35 or 40 km each day so we could see the Mango hippos and visit our training-mate Amanda in Barkoisi.

From Dapaong, we took the Peace Corps bush taxi south to Atakpame and continued our bike journey another 90 km to Pagala for training. Training was fun, seeing some other volunteers for the first time since "swear-in" last August. Following the week in Pagala, I went to visit my host mother in Akpare where I feasted every meal for two days and saw the large hydroelectric dam in the neighboring village of Nangbeto. It provides electricity for southern Benin and Togo.

Now it's time to head back to Kabou and start working again! A nice break from life in Kabou.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Update

Mice 0; David 2. Last night a mouse actually tried to just run past me
while typing on my computer. How did he think that would turn out? I
quickly found a heavy book, followed him into my bedroom, and shut the
door. I shook the furniture and he ran to find a door blocking his
only escape route. Just 10 seconds later I managed to smash him
against the floor with a solid hit from a book. I must be improving…
this kill only took 10 seconds versus the 20 minutes of the earlier
"battle". This time it was more like a rout.
Emmanuel and Mousfadatou came over tonight and we finished discussing
the specifics of the girls' loan fund project. I'm getting pretty
excited because it looks like it may just work out as planned. A Peace
Corps Partnership fundraiser may be online within the next month or
so…
This past weekend I went to Bitchabe, another town in the Bassar
prefecture, to visit the funeral of their former chief who died a
month ago. What a time! We danced, drank, and ate till we passed out
laughing and tired that evening. If only we celebrated someone's death
like this in the states. Why do funerals have to be so sad?
My high school English classes are going well, although a few
students have started to mock me a little in the first few rows of the
class. If the girl continues, she'll have to visit the "principle".
That could be quite the experience. The first time I sent someone to
the office! Some of the students came by my house this evening and
asked if they could do some exercises on Saturday afternoon to
practice for the BAC exam. Exciting because it shows that they
actually care about moving on to "terminale".
This summer looks like it could be jam packed. In addition to the
girls' loan camp, it looks like Kenny could be coming for about a
month, followed by my parents for about 2 weeks. Then in October, I
may have my brother visiting. Kassie and I may do our own journey near
November and December will be my trip home for Christmas. In some ways
time is going by too quickly and my service as a PCV will be coming to
an end quite quickly.

Sick

As a Peace Corps volunteer, one normally accepts diarrhea as a part of life and something that may come and go every few weeks for the entire 27 months. One volunteer actually told us during training that, “You aren’t a Peace Corps volunteer until you shit you pants”.
I prided myself throughout training at the fact that I was one of the few lucky trainees to not fall victim to diarrhea, nausea, food sickness, weird rashes, or any of the other random things happening to people. Furthermore, I didn’t even get the weird dreams that some people experienced under Mephaquin before getting switched to Doxycycline. My health was superb; I ate what I wanted, when I wanted and even enjoyed “dangerous” foods such as fou-fou, a mashed yam dish, or tchouk, the local brew made from sorghum.
My long stretch of good health started to run out after biking the 20km round trip one Wednesday afternoon to Sanda-Kagbanda for a business skills club meeting at the local Lycee. After arriving back at my house, I was exhausted and could feel a mild rise in my body temperature. To quell the attack, I drank a lot of water and went to bed early, leaving my yam fries and spaghetti behind uneaten. The next morning I felt loads better and by 9:00 A.M. I managed to get an appetite so I ate the previous night’s food although stopping halfway to finished after smelling something spoiled.
The same day I left for Bassar, which later turned out to be a mild blessing because the volunteer there, Amy, has something like mini-America inside her hospitable three-room tile-floored home. Since I wasn’t feeling well the night before, Kassie and I took taxi motorcycles to her house and hung out for the day. Things were going well until about noon when my health gradually went downhill further. A few hours after eating the spoiled food, I threw it up leaving a nasty, rotten taste of yams in my mouth yet giving my body the satisfaction that one always feels after finishing a fit of vomiting.
That afternoon, I developed a very harsh pain in my lower right stomach and even made my back ache in an odd way unlike anything I had felt before. My temperature gradually rose again, this time around 102 degrees. My Dr. Mom for the moment, Amy the health volunteer in Bassar, gave me ibuprofen and Tylenol to control the pain and lower my fever.
At the same time, my diarrhea became something of an extreme level and showed no signs of stopping despite using Pepto-Bismol and drinking lots of water. I mean LOTS of water. I must have drunk at least 8 to 10 liters per day and two of those liters were mixed with Oral Rehydration Salts supplied by the Med-Unit in Lomé. Despite all of this hard work, four days passed without improvement while dehydration and weakness continued to progress to the point where I would get tired walking to the bathroom and I would begin to feel light-headed if I remained standing, or even sitting, for more than about 30 seconds. I simply could not rehydrate my body fast enough.
The Med-Unit officer told me that I would need a “stool” sample. In layman’s terms, I would need to have my crap analyzed at the Bassar hospital. This seemed like a simple task, yet I was unable to walk outside let alone across town. Amy would become my savior; my saving grace. She would do the favor that no one wants to do and she will hold it against for the rest of our lives. She transported my poop in a plastic bag to the hospital for the analysis while I continued to lie in agony on her living room floor.
After running around town to chase down the lab technician and waiting for the results, Amy came back home with my very own Carnet de Santé to prove my illness, prescribe a remedy for this perpetual diarrhea, while most importantly serving as one of the best souvenirs of my time in Togo. We were somewhat shocked by the results because I carried basically everything the parasites had to offer through poor water sources just shy of Dysentery.
A direct translation from my Carnet de Santé:
Specimen: Liquid Feces
Cool State: Presence of
- Numerous forms of vegetative cists of Entamoeba kistolyliea.
- Some vegetative forms of Giardia intestinalis

This was a pretty exciting moment. I had heard earlier from other volunteers that the stool samples rarely actually showed the evidence of something alive so one might have to just live it out without being prescribed medicine from the Peace Corps medical office. It was a relief that this wasn’t the case. After receiving this information, I was put on Fasogyne to kill off all those little critters in my gut. The medicine was a life saver. Within 24 hours, there was a great improvement in my health and I could finally pace around the room long enough to appease my usual habit before becoming light headed.
In retrospect, the problems weren’t too severe and didn’t give me much worry because I knew that the Peace Corps medical office was on my side. For a local person, lacking money, and especially a child, what happened to me could have very well killed someone without quality health support.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

 
12:50 A.M. I’m awoken by a scratching coming from behind my dresser. On previous occasions, I had successfully made it through the night by listening to my CD player with headphone. If you can’t hear them, then they might not be there. At least that was the philosophy that I adhered to until my batteries all died and I was without any good method to block the noise. Using the headphones without music helped a little, but the mice (which actually turned out to be one mouse) can actually make a lot of racket. I’ve had enough; he is going to die.
My time in Kabou was nearly up to four months and I hadn’t had a single problem with mice or anything for that matter messing with my stuff, but apparently it only takes leaving town for a longer period of time and not closing all trash and food containers completely.
I spent the second week of December in Lomé to celebrate the “swearing-in” ceremony for the new Girls’ Education and Natural Resource volunteers, followed by a quick stint in Accra that made me bug-eyed for 48 hours. All in all, the trip amounted to about 8 days away from Kabou in which I had accidentally left my trash can slightly opened, releasing the odor of instant mashed potatoes packages and tomato sauce residue on the little baggies left-over after buying street food.
The first night back in my own bed was supposed to be one of immense relaxation following nights in hotels and on Peter’s couch in Kara, but in reality it would be haunted by the fear of a mouse crawling on top of my body. Maybe I shouldn’t have really cared, but it’s the uncertainty of the mouse’s actions that makes it hard to sleep. Throwing him off my bed sheet and hitting him off my forehead could be described as just two unlucky incidents throughout the night.
The next night, I decided to shut the door to my bedroom and contain the area containing the pests. It seemed like a good idea at the time because all evidence remaining was in my kitchen and spare room: half eaten tablets of Pepto-Bismol, Jolly Ranchers strewn across the floor, and feces in my magazine basket. Tonight, I would have wonderful Melphlaquin enhanced dreams uninterrupted by the shenanigans of a mouse. Little did I know, he was now trapped in my bedroom with me.
At 12:50 A.M., it became obvious we were in the same room and it definitely was not big enough for the two of us. This would need to be resolved right away. I decided to climb out from under my mosquito net, a.k.a. mouse net, put on my closed-toe shoes, and find a suitable weapon to bring tranquility back to my bedroom. The great battle, man versus beast, would last for roughly 30 minutes during which I chased the damn mouse all around my room.
The first weapon of choice was the Kabou site notebook, a quality hard-cover three-ringed binder loaded with quarterly reports of the two former inhabitants of this mouse infested home. It would have worked great if I had only managed to strike the little guy with my throws, but he was just too fast. Furthermore, he likely knew my room better than I did. I only slept there, yet he busied himself throughout the day and night as he pleased, munching on my earwax and simultaneously destroying the padding of my “earbud” headphones. The notebook failed miserably save the high level of noise I had created in the early morning.
I decided it would be easiest to trap the mouse under my hamper basket and then decide on an execution method when it came to that point. This method was destined to fail from the beginning because my basket was handmade from palm leaves, leaving plenty of escape routes even when turned upside-down.
At this point, I was at a loss for how to kill the little devil. He would even find the courage to stop on top of my clothes or on my shelf to look right in my eyes. He knew he would be dead soon. Shutting my bedroom door before crawling in bed gave me the advantage I needed to win this battle. We continued the duel onto my bed, under my bed, behind my guitar case, and among all my training materials until he stopped to hide between my official Peace Corps issue medical kit and the wall. When I slammed the plastic med kit against the wall, he managed to utter two quick squeaks before I squeezed all the air out of his lungs. My work was finished. I was victorious. Before crawling triumphantly back into bed, I took a quick photo to crown my achievement.
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Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Update: Two Months in Kabou

Sorry for the long, long delay. I've spent a lot of time in Kabou and have now recently had internet again for the first time in three weeks.

Things are going well and work is starting to pick up as I'm becoming more integrated and meeting more members of the community. At the micro-finance bank, we have submitted a report to the main office calling for recommendations to improve the security and marketing of the office. Also, we've started evaluating expenses and income by filling out monthly reports. Within the next few weeks, we hope to start meetings with local groups. Otherwise, I'm looking to work with the local radio station and schools.

I know that you all want to read for in-depth stories about my life here, but my time on the internet is a little pressed. I've been keeping a written journal and I'll try to get some more cultural things on the blog.

In other news, the elections are over as well as rainy season... New volunteers in Education and Natural Resources have also arrived, but they won't finish training until December.

Sunday, September 30, 2007

one month at post

I have just completed my first month at post and things are moving along. I've spent most of my time at my counterpart's micro-finance office. We've implemented a monthly report system and we're working on an analysis report to send to the bank's main office for recommended improvements.  Within the next month, we hope to have started trainings with local professional organizations to talk about a bank's services, the benefits of savings, and basic money management skills. Some group leaders have shown a lot of interest...
 
Other than that, I've been trying to meet people around the village, study the local language, while also reading a lot of books. Apparently I've read 12 in Togo so far!
 
Thanks to Ashley and Steph who sent some awesome packages!  CD's, Twix bars, magazines, etc.. (Letters and emails are great, too)