Walking a quick one kilometer from my host family's compound to the Peace Corps training center and back might not initially seem like an eventful process, but each trip is encapsulated by the endless salutations and greetings among everyone on the street. Its no wonder that locals will be so late to meetings and events because they stop to discuss the latest status of each person's home, family, children, work, and journey.
In local custom, everyone greets each other at all times of the day and of course multiple times even for the same person. It is expected to say something to every passerby. One is immediately intrigued by the Togolese friendliness and hospitality as some will offer food as well.
Just this morning, I walked by a girl who was standing on her front doorstep, yet off the road. I didn't acknowledge her due to her distance from the road and the fact that she was already in another conversation. Assuming that she did not expect a greeting due to her position off the path, I neglected to give her a " bonjour" or "ndi" in local Ewe. After I passed, she yelled, "David! Il faut saluer!" or "You have to greet!" I guess there is no excuse for missing someone…
On the way toward the training center in Akoumawou, I am expected to greet each person going the opposite direction with "wezolo" or "welcome" in Ewe. Keep in mind that Tomegbe and Akoumawou are two entirely separate villages about 1 km apart. To top that, I even pass through another third village during that 15 minute walk. On the way back home, I'm expected to say " abakabalo" or "come back quickly" to those leaving the village. Each way in and out of Tomegbe, I'm greeted accordingly as well by the other villagers.
In addition to the greetings for the comings and goings, the kids and adults quiz my slowly developing Ewe skills. Although my vocabulary is limited to about 8 – 10 different phrases, they don't get tired of hearing me respond over and over again. The same people will quiz me at least four times in one day. Sometimes I get tired of answering the same questions roughly 20 – 25 times (estimate) during each 15 minute walk, but it also perks me up and satisfies me to know that the community is enjoying my presence. At the very least, they are benefiting from the amusement of my struggles attempting Ewe…
So, I conducted a survey of exactly how many salutations occur on a single journey. The result was that I lost count at roughly 50-60 greetings! If someone is riding a bike or driving a car, they really miss the friendliness of the neighbors. I guess more reason to go on foot…
The greetings really have made me feel accepted into the community. As cheers of "yovo" or "white person" get replaced by "fofo" or "brother", it really means a lot deep-down.
